Our Favourite Wildlife moments travelling in South and Central America

1. Belize, Turneffe Islands – Diving into the Blue Hole

From the air, the Blue Hole, an awe inspiring vertical chute that falls several hundred feet through the reef, looks like an inky blue eye in the middle of a shallow lagoon. The Blue Hole was first dived by Jacques Cousteau in 1970 and has since become a ‘must do’ on any self-respecting diver’s list of sites. With a vertical drop of 412 feet – the Blue Hole is like swimming down a mineshaft, but a mineshaft with hammerhead sharks. As we dropped down deeper and deeper we saw one, then another and another until we were surrounded by four circling hammerheads. Our hearts were pounding like a drum.

2. Costa Rica, Osa Peninsula – Jumping Spinner Dolphins

The Osa Peninsula still holds many surprises for those seeking out nature. In fact the area has been described as “the most biologically intense place on Earth” (National Geographic) and on our visit to the Cano Island Biological Reserve, we were amazed with what we saw. On the crossing from our hotel to Cano Island our guide told us to look out for dolphins and whales, but our expectations were low. Suddenly though we had to grip on tight as the boat veered off in a completely different direction and the guide shouted, “Spinner dolphins!” Within minutes we were surrounded by a huge shoal of spinner dolphins dancing in the waves and showing off by jumping in out of the water. This has to be one of our fondest memories of our time in Costa Rica.

3. Ecuador, The Galapagos Islands – Up Close and Personal with Nature

The Galapagos Islands is like no other place in the world and nothing prepared us for what we were about to experience. On our first day we went snorkelling and as we swam around the cliff edge we saw two seals swimming underneath. When they saw us they came closer and began doing summersaults around us. When they suddenly stopped we thought we had scared them away, but then saw a reef tip shark approaching at which point the seals suddenly began surrounding the shark until it went away. Were they protecting us or themselves, we will never know. On our third day whilst walking on one of the islands the guide said, “Don’t touch the wildlife, but they can touch you”. We all thought he was joking, until one of Darwin’s finches landed on my shoulder, had a quick look and disappeared. A truly unique encounter.

4. Belize, Lamanai – A River Cruise with Caiman’s

Lamanai meaning ‘submerged crocodile’ is an impressive Mayan ruin lying within a vast impenetrable jungle, accessible only by boat. Situated in the northwest corner of Belize – this is the most remote and wild district of them all. Setting off at night by boat with no moon and surrounded by rippling, pitch black river water you couldn’t help but wonder ‘What is under the water and is it looking at us?’ We suddenly saw two glinting eyes on the river bank just a couple of metres away. The scuffling of caimans on the banks was followed by big splashes, as we held our breath noticing that the eyes were coming closer and closer to our small canoe like boat until they eventually glided alongside.

5. Brazil, The Pantanal – Searching for Jaguar

Being in Brazil’s Pantanal is the closest you will get to being on safari in Africa in South America! Early morning walks, returning for breakfast, avoiding the midday heat and returning in the evening to go game viewing. We were here to see wildlife, but especially the elusive jaguar. On our last afternoon, having seen numerous birds, capivara and caiman, we knew this would be our last chance to see the jaguar. We decided to go by canoe along one of the small creeks in the hope they would come to drink. As the sun was about to set we heard a large rustling in the bushes. We held our breath, hoping. Suddenly, we saw it. It was amazing, not a jaguar, but a giant anteater. A fully grown male standing over two metres in length and with a tail measuring over a metre!

Leave a comment

Top 5 best value holidays in South & Central America

With the economy showing no signs of recovery, we thought now was a good time to highlight which destinations in South and Central America offer the best value for money. For some it is simply a cheap place to travel whilst for others it is what you do when you are there that makes it a ‘value for money’ destination even if it is not the cheapest country in Latin America.

In order to get the lowest price for your holiday the first thing we recommend you do is book your flights as early as possible. This will secure the cheapest seats on any flight allowing you spend your hard earned cash on the hotels and rooms you want. Please note that as a general rule, flights to Central America are cheaper than those to South America. There are also some great ways to get cheap business class seats

Once at your chosen country try to avoid too much moving around as transfers to and from airports or towns can push your price up very quickly. We would therefore recommend staying in two or three (maximum) well chosen places within each country and exploring the surrounding areas from there. Our final piece of advice is; avoid multi country holidays as this is a contributing factor to cost!

Our top 5 ‘best value’ holidays

Nicaragua. Top of our list for so many reasons; the international flights are reasonable priced, the cost of food is low and general travel is inexpensive. On top of this the main destinations are close together hence limiting the travelling time and your costs. To get from Leon to Granada takes 3 hours, Granada to Ometepe Island 4 hours and from Ometepe to San Juan del Sur takes 3 hours. Expect to pay approximately $2,000 per person for a 2 week holiday excluding international flights.

Bolivia. The cheapest country in South America with regards food and travelling costs, though you may pay a little more for the airfare to get here. Once in Bolivia the destinations of La Paz, Sucre, Lake Titicaca and Uyuni can all be reached by road or train and each can be easily explored on your own with the exception of Uyuni where we recommend booking a 2 day 1 night excursion to explore the salt flats. Expect to pay approximately $2,300 per person for a 2 week holiday excluding international flights.

Mexico. With direct flights from both the US and the UK and the introduction of direct flights with Virgin Airlines (from the UK) in the middle of 2012 the cost of flying to Cancun has never been so cheap. Once here we recommend hiring a car which is the cheapest way to get around but it also gives you the freedom to explore the Yucatan Peninsula on your own. Hotels along the coast regularly have promotional stays which can easily be combined with a drive inland to the impressive Maya sites of Chichen Itza and Uxmal. Expect to pay approximately $2,200 per person for a 2 week holiday including car hire but excluding international flights.

Brazil. At first glance you would not expect Brazil to make the list, but if you choose your destination carefully and book your flights at least 8 months in advance you can visit this fascinating country for a snip of the normal price. We recommend flying directly into the north east of the country to Salvador, Natal or Fortaleza. By avoiding Rio de Janeiro you will save on both your international and internal airfares and from any of the above mentioned destinations you can have a 12 night stay at one of the best beaches in Brazil; Morro de Sao Paulo, Pipa or Jericoacoara. Expect to pay approximately $1,700 per person for a 12 night holiday excluding international flights.

Honduras. One ofthe lesser visited countries in Central America, Honduras has long been known as the cheapest place in the world to learn how to SCUBA dive. However, the country has more to offer than just diving. The Mayan ruins of Copan were the artistic centre of their world and are easily accessible, the jungle clad Pico Bonito National park is a haven for walkers and wildlife whilst the Bay Islands of Roatan and Utila are the perfect places to relax and explore the underwater world. In order to keep costs down you need to avoid too much moving around as internal flights can be expensive. By combining the Bay islands and Pico Bonito and using the ferries from the mainland to link the two you can catch a bargain. Expect to pay approximately $2,300 per person for a 2 week holiday excluding international flights.

Leave a comment

Planning the perfect holiday at the perfect time

One of the most common questions we’re asked by customers is “We’ve always wanted to go to Brazil (or Argentina or Guatemala) and when is the best time to visit?” For others who are constrained by a set time it’s more a question of “Where do you think we should go in March (or June or November)?”. So we thought a monthly guide on where to go and when in South and Central America would be helpful. Do let us know what you think.

January
Mexico’s Caribbean coast

Why not escape the British winter and celebrate New Year basking in the sunshine of Mexico’s Caribbean coast – the Mayan Riviera. With hundreds of miles of perfect, white-sand beaches with clear turquoise waters, hotels to suit every budget and some great flight deals available it’s a great choice.

Nicaragua

Nicaragua is an undiscovered gem. It’s what Costa Rica was like years ago – untouched and with little infrastructure. The Corn Islands off the Eastern coast have pristine white beaches and a typically Caribbean atmosphere. If you’re looking for a bit more luxury, you’ll find it on the Western Pacific coast at Morgan’s Rock (probably one of the best beach lodges in the America’s) and Punta Teonoste, which is a perfect place to get away from it all. The colonial towns of Leon and Granada are a must see and those with an adventurous spirit will like the Rio Indio lodge at the end of the Rio San juan.

February
Salvador, Brazil

No doubt, the carnival parade in Rio is maybe the most visually beautiful spectacle in the world, but if you are looking for real fun, the Salvador Carnival is the place to go. It’s no coincidence that thousands of Brazilians come to Salvador every carnival. In Rio you are a spectator of the parade, whereas in the Salvador Carnival you are the show. This is by far the biggest street party in the world with around 2 million people participating in the parades over six consecutive days.

Costa Rica

It’s the dry season in Costa Rica so it’s the perfect time to visit most areas. Nature lovers can explore the country’s volcanoes and rainforests to see beautiful poison dart frogs, cloud forests, macaws, hummingbirds and the elusive quetzal. Costa Rica is a heaven for adventurers with rafting, hiking, mountain biking, horse-riding, surfing and zip-lining through the forest canopy.

March
Soberania, Panama

Panama is frequently described as “Central America’s best-kept secret” due to its rich history, incredible natural beauty and an astounding degree of biodiversity. If you’re passionate about birding this really is the place to be with over nine hundred bird species – more than in Costa Rica or in the whole of North America. Soberania is a world famous destination among birdwatchers – and March is one of the best times to come as it’s mostly dry.

Patagonia, Chile

This is the last month of the season in Chilean Patagonia as from April through to September Patagonia can become inaccessible. People looking to get off the beaten track will find Patagonia blissful as this is one of the most remote and beautiful areas of the world. It has lush forests, deep fjords, spectacular shaped mountains and awe inspiring glaciers. Expect to see an abundance of wildlife including llama, guanaco, rhea, condors and Magellan penguins.

April
The Cayes, Belize

These tiny Caribbean islands are good value for money at this time of year, as prices begin to drop. And if you’re looking to get away from high-rise hotels, over the top resorts and crowded dive and snorkelling sites, then this is the right spot for you! The Cayes have two stunning atolls and miles of barrier reef, much of which is totally unexplored and all of it is easily accessible by boat. Why not snorkel off the Turneffe islands or dive the infamous Blue Hole made famous by Jacques Cousteau in 1972 – it’s almost 1000 feet in diameter and over 450 feet deep!

Machu Picchu, Peru

Machu Picchu, the ‘lost city of the Incas’ is a world famous destination so it can get very crowded. We recommend going either at the beginning or the end of the dry season (April to October) when there are fewer travellers. For us April is a truly special month with the orchids along the Inca trail in full bloom and the rivers ideal for white water rafting.

May
Galapagos Islands
A trip to the Galapagos Island is the journey of a lifetime; offering you a magical opportunity to view animals in their natural habitat who are completely unafraid of man. There are two seasons – the warm season is January to June and the dry Season July to December. May is a wonderful month with sunny clear skies and warm seas. You can snorkel with penguins and sea-lions and get close to penguins and flamingos. You’ll see waved albatrosses laying their eggs as well as green sea turtles hatching and marine iguana eggs.

Costa Rica Pacific
The sun drenches the land from November until the end of May; and the remote, pristine beaches lined with lush tropical jungle make this an idyllic place to relax and re-charge your batteries. You’ll find some of Costa Rica’s most exclusive beach retreats here on the Nicoya Peninsula. If you’re feeling more energetic why not learn to surf – the Pacific coast presents one of the best stretches of surfing coastline in the world.

June
Cuzco, Peru
The Inca festival of the Sun ‘Inti Raymi’ is held in Cuzco every June. Tens of thousands of people come here from other parts of Peru and South America for the celebrations that last an entire week. There are parades, dancing, street fairs, music and there is even a re-enactment of a llama sacrifice (just in case any of you are faint-hearted, it’s fake). After this you can take the short drive to the Sacred Valley with its fertile valleys, white water rivers, colourful markets and hiking trails.

Brazil
In June the weather in Brazil is perfect. You can expect temperatures in the mid-twenties on the coast in the south and low thirties further north and all without the rain. This is also the best time to see the mighty Iguazu Falls as with less water coming over the canyons there are actually more individual waterfalls!

July
Ecuador
Ecuador is a diverse country offering everything from colourful markets to colonial towns and snow-capped volcanoes to Amazonia jungle. July’s dry, warm weather is perfect for trekking, climbing or horseriding holidays here and the tropical vegetation is still lush and green. One of the most authentic and off the beaten track expeditions we offer is to the Huaorani Lodge on the edge of the Amazon where you can meet the people of this unique Indian settlement that still maintains all of their original ways of life.

Northwest Argentina
This is a relatively unknown region of Argentina – explore the multi-coloured valleys and canyons of Calchaques, visit the ancient pre-Inca ruins of Quilmes, walk through narrow canyons to hidden waterfalls, or sample wine from the many vineyards. Take the famous ‘Train to the clouds’, the highest in the world built in 1932 which begins in Salta and ends in La Polvarilla – the highest point at 4220m. The trip takes approximately 15 hours and passes through some incredibly striking scenery.

August
Pantanal, Brazil
The Amazon maybe better known but the Pantanal is a superior place to see wildlife. In the Amazon, the animals hide in the dense foliage so you will always hear more than you can see, but in the open spaces of the Pantanal, wildlife is highly visible. From May to October, the world’s biggest wetland area drains into the Amazon River to the north and through the River Plate to the south, and as the month’s progress the wet lands subside. This leaves behind small pockets of water, trapping the fish, which in turn attracts large numbers of migratory birds and resident mammals.

Bolivia
Bolivia’s population is 90% indigenous and travelling around this fascinating country is an adventure. You don’t find the high levels of luxury found elsewhere on the continent, but you will find an array of spectacular scenery. The Bolivian Amazon (or the Yunga’s as they are known) is where the Andes meet the Amazon – you’ll find small mountains draped in jungle and a wide variety of wildlife. The Uyuni salt flats are the largest in the world and are difficult to reach, but worth the journey. Most people visit Bolivia during their Winter (May-October) because of the dry, clear days.

September
Fernando de Noronha, Brazil
Fernando de Noronha’s weather is tropical with heat and sun all through the year – however September is a great month with average temperatures of 30 oC. Honeymooners will adore Brazil’s best and most exclusive hideaway, its 22 beaches have been fabled as an eco-wonderland. It offers a range of attractions that include snorkelling, diving, walking as well as wildlife and its beaches are regularly voted as the best in Brazil. Being a national park island it limits the amount of people on the island at any one time, which will hopefully preserve this pocket of paradise.

North East Brazil
The North East coast of Brazil is still hot at this time of year and there is no better place to get away from it all than the Marau Peninsula. To get to this remote paradise hotel, you take a private plane from Salvador landing just 100 meters from the reception, after a 35-minute scenic flight. The eco-luxury resort of Kiaroa is situated on an endless deserted beach with crystalline water and natural pools which are ideal for swimming in – you can walk for miles and you won’t see a soul.

October
Buenos Aires, Argentina
It is early spring in Buenos Aires right now and the city is warming up. Known as the ‘Paris of South America’ it’s a fascinating, colourful city with a European feel. What’s more eating out is really affordable – so you can indulge yourself dining al fresco in the rejuvenated and hip Palermo Soho with all the new boutique hotels and bars. Then dance the night away in San Telmo!

The Atacama Desert, Chile
The Atacama Desert is a haven for adventure and in the past few years some superb hotels have been built in and around the adobe town of San Pedro de Atacama. The landscape is positively lunar and when the sun sets and rises in the Valley de la Luna the hues of colours are amazing. The area also has salt flats, geysers, pre-Inca ruins and is surrounded by numerous 5,000 and 6,000 metre volcanoes.

November
Guatemala
November is an ideal month to explore Guatemala – the heartland of the ancient world of the Mayans – as it’s fairly dry. Unlike most of Latin America, the majority of the local people are still indigenous Indian and many still wear their colourful, traditional costume. The beautiful colonial city of Antigua is located close to the capital making it an ideal first point of call. Then head on to see Tikal probably the most impressive of the ancient Mayan cities, set deep in the rainforest and an absolute must.

Uruguay
Uruguay has year round good weather, but from November onwards the temperatures steadily increase making it a perfect beach destination after a visit to Argentina or Chile. The new Playa VIK hotel has set a gold standard, but the Posada del Faro and the Casa Suaya are both excellent alternatives. Around the small fishing village of Jose Ignacio are numerous activities from horse riding and surfing to beach combing and watching the fisherman bring in their catch – a time when the local restaurants vie for the best fish for your dinner!

December
The Bay Islands, Honduras
Located in amongst the second longest barrier reef in the world the Bay Islands spectacular coral-reef systems are home to some 96% of all species of marine life known to inhabit the Caribbean! Prices remain remarkably low, making the Bay Islands a great place to learn, and in turn love, scuba diving. December is a great month to visit because hurricane season (June to November) has ended plus its lobster season so you can indulge yourself in a fantastically fresh, incredibly cheap, sustainably fished lobster dinner.

Antarctica
Join an exclusive group of intrepid travellers and take an Antarctic voyage past Cape Horn, across the Drake Passage to the peninsula. It’s Summer in the White Continent and being unimaginably rich in fauna the southern ocean is a constant drama. Get close to penguins, seals, sea lions, whales, dolphins and albatrosses. With each boat limited to about 50 passengers there is an intimate, friendly atmosphere and there are educational lectures on board.

Leave a comment

Roatan, The Bay Islands

Roatan is the largest of the Bay islands at 40miles long, with a beautiful mountainous backbone and a shoreline dotted with white sandy beaches and small Garifuna communities. The topography reminds me of the lush green rugged beauty of the Caribbean islands of St Lucia and Montserrat. Of course the great thing about Roatan is that it is significantly better value.

It is at the southern end of the Mesoamerican barrier reef and the Bay islands are almost completely surrounded by coral reefs. As such they are becoming renowned as one of the world’s most outstanding and reasonable diving, snorkelling and fishing destinations. You can see a dizzying assortment of hard and soft coral, fish, sponges, anemones, worms, shellfish, rays, sea turtles, dolphin and shark; including the world’s largest fish – the Whale Shark. (best time to see the majestic Whale Shark is Jan – April on Roatan we are told)

Tip: The island suffers from the blight of sandflies. However Cactus Juice skin lotion is an effective protectant. That’s what the locals use mostly.

We stayed at the Palmetto Plantation and Barefoot Caye and Marina

Leave a comment

Paradise found in the Turneffe Islands

Paradise found. Full stop.

There are only three atolls in the Caribbean sea and one of them is the Turneffe atoll. Turneffe is the largest and most biologically diverse coral atoll in the Western Hemisphere and is approximately 30 miles long and 10 miles wide.

There are dozens of islands, some larger than 5,000 acres and mangrove forests cover most of the low-lying areas. The atolls are rich in sea-life – much of the area being protected as a marine reserve – so the diving and fishing opportunities are world-class. Find out more here

The area is renowned for Bone fish,Permit, Great Baracuda, Snapper and Tarpon

We stayed at the beautiful Turneffe Island lodge resort which is a private island and has been enjoyed by guests since the 1960′s.

Leave a comment

Diving from Caye Caulker, Belize

There’s a huge choice of diving spots around the cayes, most a short boat ride from Caulker. Our trip to the northern Turneffe where we did two dives was undoubtedly some of the best diving i have ever done. We dived at Turneffe little elbow and the Black coral wall.

Leave a comment

Caye Caulker – an island which is comfortingly averse to change..

We visited Caye Caulker just over 10 years ago and it seems that the island was .. and is perfectly happy just the way it is thankyou. Very little has changed over the years except there are a few more hotels and golf buggy’s are more popular now. It remains a typically laid back Caribbean island – its inhabitants smiling, effervescent and justly proud of their home.

Aside from its relaxed vibe, the main draw of Caulker lies in its proximity to the barrier reef and the huge variety of diving & snorkelling opportunities on offer. Plus of course the great value it offers in comparision to the more developed island of Ambergis just 40 mins away. Note – you wont find chic, upmarket resorts on Caulker, but there are some characterful and very comfortable options nonetheless.

Love this ! With a new hair style and maybe a mani/pedi – you too can have a brand new ‘Unique Identity’ !

We stayed at the Anchorage.

Leave a comment

Diving trips on Ambergis Caye, Belize

Variety of trips on offer but the ‘must do’ is Hol Chan Marine reserve – a protected area where you will jump out of the boat and find yourself amongst in water surrounded by dozens of sting rays and nurse sharks as they swim up to the boat. Beware it’s a popular and therefore busy spot.

Quieter options are ‘Tres Cocos’ and ‘Tuffy Canyons’ – both of which offer beautiful corals, sponges and are teeming with fish life.

We recommend a guy called Randy from Belize Coral Divers (664 2001). Randy took us out on two trips and had superb local knowledge.

From Portofino and Mata Chica resorts its quite easy to kayak out to ‘Mexico Rocks’ – a snorkelling area on the reef opposite. Takes about 20-30 minutes to kayak out (depending on how fit you are!) And when you get there, you can simply tie your kayak to a buoy, and snorkell to your hearts content. We took water and fresh pineapple with us and stayed out for about 3 hours. And so you know.. its called Mexico rocks because if you head out in this direction far enough.. eventually you’ll hit Mexico.

Leave a comment

Arriving at Ambergis Caye, Belize

Arriving by boat from Corozal the incredible beauty of this part of the world is clear to see. Dozens of small isles dotted with palms. Dazzling bright turquoise waters. Birds skimming the waves as they fly by. However, the real magic lies beneath the Caribbean sea. This barrier reef is part of the Meso-American reef – the second largest in the world – and runs for eighty miles. The cayes are heaven for those who are most at home under water searching out rare corals, spotted eagle rays, nurse sharks, turtles, sting rays.. and an array of fish including snappers, parrotfish, hogfish, barracuda, gray angels, i could go on..

We’ve had a few days to get into the island way of life and are now truely relaxed and enjoying the laid back vibe. You cant swim off the beaches here very easily, as tend to be sea-weedy. However the sandy shores are ideal for exploring on a bike (most hotels offer complimentary bikes). Stop off for a refreshing pina colada at one of the many beachfront bars en route – they do a great pina here.

March – April tends to be a very windy month – it comes and goes.. so our advice is if you get a calm day then dont wait.. take the chance to get out on the boat and explore the reef.

We stayed at Mata Chica and the Portofino resort

Leave a comment

The Riviera Maya

Just down the highway from the bustling streets of Cancun is the Riviera Maya. This is the home of some of the most luxurious hotels you will find in the world. But not always the most secluded, as it is now an extremely densely packed resort area. However, there are some old favourites which due to either their exemplary locations, or their ingenious design make for a truely relaxing experience.

Beautiful swimming beaches and great snorkelling trips to be had..

We stayed at The Maroma, Ceiba Del Mar, The Tides, and The Mandarin Oriental

Leave a comment

Search

Categories

Tags