Our Favourite Wildlife moments travelling in South and Central America

1. Belize, Turneffe Islands – Diving into the Blue Hole

From the air, the Blue Hole, an awe inspiring vertical chute that falls several hundred feet through the reef, looks like an inky blue eye in the middle of a shallow lagoon. The Blue Hole was first dived by Jacques Cousteau in 1970 and has since become a ‘must do’ on any self-respecting diver’s list of sites. With a vertical drop of 412 feet – the Blue Hole is like swimming down a mineshaft, but a mineshaft with hammerhead sharks. As we dropped down deeper and deeper we saw one, then another and another until we were surrounded by four circling hammerheads. Our hearts were pounding like a drum.

2. Costa Rica, Osa Peninsula – Jumping Spinner Dolphins

The Osa Peninsula still holds many surprises for those seeking out nature. In fact the area has been described as “the most biologically intense place on Earth” (National Geographic) and on our visit to the Cano Island Biological Reserve, we were amazed with what we saw. On the crossing from our hotel to Cano Island our guide told us to look out for dolphins and whales, but our expectations were low. Suddenly though we had to grip on tight as the boat veered off in a completely different direction and the guide shouted, “Spinner dolphins!” Within minutes we were surrounded by a huge shoal of spinner dolphins dancing in the waves and showing off by jumping in out of the water. This has to be one of our fondest memories of our time in Costa Rica.

3. Ecuador, The Galapagos Islands – Up Close and Personal with Nature

The Galapagos Islands is like no other place in the world and nothing prepared us for what we were about to experience. On our first day we went snorkelling and as we swam around the cliff edge we saw two seals swimming underneath. When they saw us they came closer and began doing summersaults around us. When they suddenly stopped we thought we had scared them away, but then saw a reef tip shark approaching at which point the seals suddenly began surrounding the shark until it went away. Were they protecting us or themselves, we will never know. On our third day whilst walking on one of the islands the guide said, “Don’t touch the wildlife, but they can touch you”. We all thought he was joking, until one of Darwin’s finches landed on my shoulder, had a quick look and disappeared. A truly unique encounter.

4. Belize, Lamanai – A River Cruise with Caiman’s

Lamanai meaning ‘submerged crocodile’ is an impressive Mayan ruin lying within a vast impenetrable jungle, accessible only by boat. Situated in the northwest corner of Belize – this is the most remote and wild district of them all. Setting off at night by boat with no moon and surrounded by rippling, pitch black river water you couldn’t help but wonder ‘What is under the water and is it looking at us?’ We suddenly saw two glinting eyes on the river bank just a couple of metres away. The scuffling of caimans on the banks was followed by big splashes, as we held our breath noticing that the eyes were coming closer and closer to our small canoe like boat until they eventually glided alongside.

5. Brazil, The Pantanal – Searching for Jaguar

Being in Brazil’s Pantanal is the closest you will get to being on safari in Africa in South America! Early morning walks, returning for breakfast, avoiding the midday heat and returning in the evening to go game viewing. We were here to see wildlife, but especially the elusive jaguar. On our last afternoon, having seen numerous birds, capivara and caiman, we knew this would be our last chance to see the jaguar. We decided to go by canoe along one of the small creeks in the hope they would come to drink. As the sun was about to set we heard a large rustling in the bushes. We held our breath, hoping. Suddenly, we saw it. It was amazing, not a jaguar, but a giant anteater. A fully grown male standing over two metres in length and with a tail measuring over a metre!

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Revealed: The Ultimate Romantic Escapes for Lovers

A stay at any of these hot spots may be just what your relationship needs.

For adventurous souls

Explora Patagonia, Chile. This is a luxurious lodge in the heart of the Torres del Paine National Park, where a day’s exploring of this incredible environment is made even more enjoyable by the comforts of the evening: a bath-house with heated pools, gourmet meals, vintage wines and a fantastic view of the granite towers as well as Lake Pehoe. All the fifty wonderful rooms have interiors of wood, slate, copper, a jacuzzi and a private, comfortable sitting area. You really feel like you are getting away from it all here – the silence is deafening. Frommer say “The Explora in Patagonia has garnered more fame than any other hotel in Chile, and deservedly so.”

For eroticism

The Faena Hotel, Buenos Aires, Argentina. What you see on the outside (in this case an austere early 20^th century grain silo, scrubbed and spotlit) gives little away as to what lies within (lush gold damasks and brilliant whites, rich wood floors, wardrobes on claws as if ready to pounce, wall-mounted unicorn heads – it’s as if you have stumbled into Narnia. In El Cabaret, their intimate cabaret venue, you feel like you are in a scarlet music box. People sip champagne on the red-leather couches and watch sensual tango shows. The Faena Hotel has been featured in Conde Nast Traveller The Gold List 2007 and Gold List 2011.

For Robinson Crusoe style barefoot luxury

Kiaroa Eco-Luxury Resort, the Marau Peninsula, Brazil. There is no better place to get away from it all than the Marau Peninsula. To get to this remote paradise hotel, you take a private plane from Salvador landing just 100 meters from the reception, after a 35-minute scenic flight. Kiaroa is situated on an endless deserted beach with crystalline water and natural pools which are ideal for swimming in – you can walk for miles and you won’t see a soul.

For playing ‘lost in the wilderness’

Blancaneaux lodge, Mountain Pine Ridge, Belize. Francis Ford Coppola’s lodge in Mountain Pine ridge was discovered by the man himself. He was on a trip out to the region in search of a quiet retreat in the wilderness which would be ideal for writing. The abandoned wooden lodge which he found is set back on the rocky slopes of the Privaisson River. Winding paths lead you down to numerous waterfalls and secluded pools which are ideal for back-to-nature bathing. For those looking for complete privacy, stay in the Enchanted Cottage with its own infinity pool, underfloor heating and an open fireplace.

For surf bums looking for a stylish hideaway

FlorBlanca, Nicoya peninsula, Costa Rica. This is a very exclusive and private hotel with just 11 rooms. Surrounded by lush tropical gardens, they look out towards the Pacific Ocean. This coastline is renowned for world class surf breaks so it’s ideal for surf loving couples. The villas are the ultimate romantic hideaway with huge four poster beds with billowing drapes and bathrooms with outdoor showers and leaf shaped baths. This is without doubt one of the most exquisite hotels in Central America – it’s chic yet understated, luxurious yet utterly unpretentious. In Tatler’s words “Stroll through forested gardens, and find your villa hidden in the jungle, beautifully cool in every sense.”

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Planning the perfect holiday at the perfect time

One of the most common questions we’re asked by customers is “We’ve always wanted to go to Brazil (or Argentina or Guatemala) and when is the best time to visit?” For others who are constrained by a set time it’s more a question of “Where do you think we should go in March (or June or November)?”. So we thought a monthly guide on where to go and when in South and Central America would be helpful. Do let us know what you think.

January
Mexico’s Caribbean coast

Why not escape the British winter and celebrate New Year basking in the sunshine of Mexico’s Caribbean coast – the Mayan Riviera. With hundreds of miles of perfect, white-sand beaches with clear turquoise waters, hotels to suit every budget and some great flight deals available it’s a great choice.

Nicaragua

Nicaragua is an undiscovered gem. It’s what Costa Rica was like years ago – untouched and with little infrastructure. The Corn Islands off the Eastern coast have pristine white beaches and a typically Caribbean atmosphere. If you’re looking for a bit more luxury, you’ll find it on the Western Pacific coast at Morgan’s Rock (probably one of the best beach lodges in the America’s) and Punta Teonoste, which is a perfect place to get away from it all. The colonial towns of Leon and Granada are a must see and those with an adventurous spirit will like the Rio Indio lodge at the end of the Rio San juan.

February
Salvador, Brazil

No doubt, the carnival parade in Rio is maybe the most visually beautiful spectacle in the world, but if you are looking for real fun, the Salvador Carnival is the place to go. It’s no coincidence that thousands of Brazilians come to Salvador every carnival. In Rio you are a spectator of the parade, whereas in the Salvador Carnival you are the show. This is by far the biggest street party in the world with around 2 million people participating in the parades over six consecutive days.

Costa Rica

It’s the dry season in Costa Rica so it’s the perfect time to visit most areas. Nature lovers can explore the country’s volcanoes and rainforests to see beautiful poison dart frogs, cloud forests, macaws, hummingbirds and the elusive quetzal. Costa Rica is a heaven for adventurers with rafting, hiking, mountain biking, horse-riding, surfing and zip-lining through the forest canopy.

March
Soberania, Panama

Panama is frequently described as “Central America’s best-kept secret” due to its rich history, incredible natural beauty and an astounding degree of biodiversity. If you’re passionate about birding this really is the place to be with over nine hundred bird species – more than in Costa Rica or in the whole of North America. Soberania is a world famous destination among birdwatchers – and March is one of the best times to come as it’s mostly dry.

Patagonia, Chile

This is the last month of the season in Chilean Patagonia as from April through to September Patagonia can become inaccessible. People looking to get off the beaten track will find Patagonia blissful as this is one of the most remote and beautiful areas of the world. It has lush forests, deep fjords, spectacular shaped mountains and awe inspiring glaciers. Expect to see an abundance of wildlife including llama, guanaco, rhea, condors and Magellan penguins.

April
The Cayes, Belize

These tiny Caribbean islands are good value for money at this time of year, as prices begin to drop. And if you’re looking to get away from high-rise hotels, over the top resorts and crowded dive and snorkelling sites, then this is the right spot for you! The Cayes have two stunning atolls and miles of barrier reef, much of which is totally unexplored and all of it is easily accessible by boat. Why not snorkel off the Turneffe islands or dive the infamous Blue Hole made famous by Jacques Cousteau in 1972 – it’s almost 1000 feet in diameter and over 450 feet deep!

Machu Picchu, Peru

Machu Picchu, the ‘lost city of the Incas’ is a world famous destination so it can get very crowded. We recommend going either at the beginning or the end of the dry season (April to October) when there are fewer travellers. For us April is a truly special month with the orchids along the Inca trail in full bloom and the rivers ideal for white water rafting.

May
Galapagos Islands
A trip to the Galapagos Island is the journey of a lifetime; offering you a magical opportunity to view animals in their natural habitat who are completely unafraid of man. There are two seasons – the warm season is January to June and the dry Season July to December. May is a wonderful month with sunny clear skies and warm seas. You can snorkel with penguins and sea-lions and get close to penguins and flamingos. You’ll see waved albatrosses laying their eggs as well as green sea turtles hatching and marine iguana eggs.

Costa Rica Pacific
The sun drenches the land from November until the end of May; and the remote, pristine beaches lined with lush tropical jungle make this an idyllic place to relax and re-charge your batteries. You’ll find some of Costa Rica’s most exclusive beach retreats here on the Nicoya Peninsula. If you’re feeling more energetic why not learn to surf – the Pacific coast presents one of the best stretches of surfing coastline in the world.

June
Cuzco, Peru
The Inca festival of the Sun ‘Inti Raymi’ is held in Cuzco every June. Tens of thousands of people come here from other parts of Peru and South America for the celebrations that last an entire week. There are parades, dancing, street fairs, music and there is even a re-enactment of a llama sacrifice (just in case any of you are faint-hearted, it’s fake). After this you can take the short drive to the Sacred Valley with its fertile valleys, white water rivers, colourful markets and hiking trails.

Brazil
In June the weather in Brazil is perfect. You can expect temperatures in the mid-twenties on the coast in the south and low thirties further north and all without the rain. This is also the best time to see the mighty Iguazu Falls as with less water coming over the canyons there are actually more individual waterfalls!

July
Ecuador
Ecuador is a diverse country offering everything from colourful markets to colonial towns and snow-capped volcanoes to Amazonia jungle. July’s dry, warm weather is perfect for trekking, climbing or horseriding holidays here and the tropical vegetation is still lush and green. One of the most authentic and off the beaten track expeditions we offer is to the Huaorani Lodge on the edge of the Amazon where you can meet the people of this unique Indian settlement that still maintains all of their original ways of life.

Northwest Argentina
This is a relatively unknown region of Argentina – explore the multi-coloured valleys and canyons of Calchaques, visit the ancient pre-Inca ruins of Quilmes, walk through narrow canyons to hidden waterfalls, or sample wine from the many vineyards. Take the famous ‘Train to the clouds’, the highest in the world built in 1932 which begins in Salta and ends in La Polvarilla – the highest point at 4220m. The trip takes approximately 15 hours and passes through some incredibly striking scenery.

August
Pantanal, Brazil
The Amazon maybe better known but the Pantanal is a superior place to see wildlife. In the Amazon, the animals hide in the dense foliage so you will always hear more than you can see, but in the open spaces of the Pantanal, wildlife is highly visible. From May to October, the world’s biggest wetland area drains into the Amazon River to the north and through the River Plate to the south, and as the month’s progress the wet lands subside. This leaves behind small pockets of water, trapping the fish, which in turn attracts large numbers of migratory birds and resident mammals.

Bolivia
Bolivia’s population is 90% indigenous and travelling around this fascinating country is an adventure. You don’t find the high levels of luxury found elsewhere on the continent, but you will find an array of spectacular scenery. The Bolivian Amazon (or the Yunga’s as they are known) is where the Andes meet the Amazon – you’ll find small mountains draped in jungle and a wide variety of wildlife. The Uyuni salt flats are the largest in the world and are difficult to reach, but worth the journey. Most people visit Bolivia during their Winter (May-October) because of the dry, clear days.

September
Fernando de Noronha, Brazil
Fernando de Noronha’s weather is tropical with heat and sun all through the year – however September is a great month with average temperatures of 30 oC. Honeymooners will adore Brazil’s best and most exclusive hideaway, its 22 beaches have been fabled as an eco-wonderland. It offers a range of attractions that include snorkelling, diving, walking as well as wildlife and its beaches are regularly voted as the best in Brazil. Being a national park island it limits the amount of people on the island at any one time, which will hopefully preserve this pocket of paradise.

North East Brazil
The North East coast of Brazil is still hot at this time of year and there is no better place to get away from it all than the Marau Peninsula. To get to this remote paradise hotel, you take a private plane from Salvador landing just 100 meters from the reception, after a 35-minute scenic flight. The eco-luxury resort of Kiaroa is situated on an endless deserted beach with crystalline water and natural pools which are ideal for swimming in – you can walk for miles and you won’t see a soul.

October
Buenos Aires, Argentina
It is early spring in Buenos Aires right now and the city is warming up. Known as the ‘Paris of South America’ it’s a fascinating, colourful city with a European feel. What’s more eating out is really affordable – so you can indulge yourself dining al fresco in the rejuvenated and hip Palermo Soho with all the new boutique hotels and bars. Then dance the night away in San Telmo!

The Atacama Desert, Chile
The Atacama Desert is a haven for adventure and in the past few years some superb hotels have been built in and around the adobe town of San Pedro de Atacama. The landscape is positively lunar and when the sun sets and rises in the Valley de la Luna the hues of colours are amazing. The area also has salt flats, geysers, pre-Inca ruins and is surrounded by numerous 5,000 and 6,000 metre volcanoes.

November
Guatemala
November is an ideal month to explore Guatemala – the heartland of the ancient world of the Mayans – as it’s fairly dry. Unlike most of Latin America, the majority of the local people are still indigenous Indian and many still wear their colourful, traditional costume. The beautiful colonial city of Antigua is located close to the capital making it an ideal first point of call. Then head on to see Tikal probably the most impressive of the ancient Mayan cities, set deep in the rainforest and an absolute must.

Uruguay
Uruguay has year round good weather, but from November onwards the temperatures steadily increase making it a perfect beach destination after a visit to Argentina or Chile. The new Playa VIK hotel has set a gold standard, but the Posada del Faro and the Casa Suaya are both excellent alternatives. Around the small fishing village of Jose Ignacio are numerous activities from horse riding and surfing to beach combing and watching the fisherman bring in their catch – a time when the local restaurants vie for the best fish for your dinner!

December
The Bay Islands, Honduras
Located in amongst the second longest barrier reef in the world the Bay Islands spectacular coral-reef systems are home to some 96% of all species of marine life known to inhabit the Caribbean! Prices remain remarkably low, making the Bay Islands a great place to learn, and in turn love, scuba diving. December is a great month to visit because hurricane season (June to November) has ended plus its lobster season so you can indulge yourself in a fantastically fresh, incredibly cheap, sustainably fished lobster dinner.

Antarctica
Join an exclusive group of intrepid travellers and take an Antarctic voyage past Cape Horn, across the Drake Passage to the peninsula. It’s Summer in the White Continent and being unimaginably rich in fauna the southern ocean is a constant drama. Get close to penguins, seals, sea lions, whales, dolphins and albatrosses. With each boat limited to about 50 passengers there is an intimate, friendly atmosphere and there are educational lectures on board.

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In search of the perfect beach

We love a good road trip.. there’s nothing like leaping in your car and setting off in search of some adventure with the sunshine beating down on you. And in our view, the Pacific coast of Costa Rica is one of the best places to do it.

The quality of the roads varies wildly. Along the North western coast of Guanacaste they’re really rather good tarmacked roads for the most part. However once you go inland on the Nicoya peninsula – where it becomes hilly, more rural and infrastructure is minimal – you’re in for a bumpy ride. But thats half the fun. On our way down to visit Flor Blanca we hit the rainy season and had some seriously challenging rivers to cross and our rental car took a battering.

Come here and you’ll find dozens of remote, pristine beaches lined with lush tropical jungle offering a perfect place to relax and kick back. Some of the coastline is mountainous so often we’d drive along the cliffs with the most staggering views – right below us would be the crashing waves. Then before long we’d stumble across a golden arc of sand and stop off for a quick dip in the water. Check out more of the photos from our road trip on Facebook here.

We’d love to hear about your favourite road trip stories..

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Tips for getting some sleep on planes

Many of us have problems dozing off whilst flying and a good sleep when flying long distance can make all the difference to how we feel when we arrive at our destination. Having spent thousands of hours in the air exploring the globe the Latin Odyssey team have had plenty of practise perfecting the art of nodding off in-flight. So here are some of our top tips which we hope will help.

1. Not everyone can afford a seat in a flat bed in first class. So the trick is to score the best possible seat in economy. A window seat is usually best as you can have control of the window blind, and you dont have to deal with your fellow passengers clambouring over you to go to the toilet. Plus you can lean your head against the wall of the plane. Engine noise tends to be loudest towards the end of the plane so avoid this. Dont sit close to the galley or the toilet as people often congregate and chat. Finally dont go for a seat in front of the emergency exit as these often dont recline. To get one of these prime seats look at Seatguru.com to check out your plane’s seating plan and check in online as soon as possible.

2.What you put in your body whilst you are at 9,000m can have a big impact on how your body relaxes. It’s best to have a light meal before you plan to have a sleep. Try to eat foods which contain tryptophan (a calming amino acid) such as fish, turkey and cottage cheese. Avoid gas producing foods like brocolli, beans, wheat and potatoes if you can.

3. What you wear is also important. Whilst rocking up in a pair of pajama’s clearly isnt feasible, being comfortable is achieveable. Always travel with plenty of soft layered clothing and your two essentials – ear plugs and an eye mask. Not every airline provides these so best to pack these yourself. Also it’s best to ask for a blanket as soon as you board as sometimes there arent enough for everyone and a blanket helps to make you feel cosy. Lastly, it’s wise to tell the steward you’re planning to go to sleep so they dont wake you up for meals.

Sleep tight..

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Smelly feet used to trap deadly mosquitoes

Whilst I love travelling to far off climes, I dont love everything that comes with a tropical climate. Mossies. Urgh. So when I heard about a new discovery today by a researcher, Dr. Fredros Okumu, I decided it was my responsibility to share the good news with you. He has found that mosquitoes are more attracted to the bad smell emanating from dirty feet than to sleeping humans. 8 out of 10 mosquitos in his research preferred the smell of sweaty socks to the flesh of a human volunteer. As we speak, Okumo is building deadly traps for the vile insects in African rural communities. The trap is placed outside homes and is meant to complement bed nets and sprays already in use to protect people from mosquitoes that can carry malaria and other diseases. This is a fantastic breakthrough for the millions of people who die of malaria every year. And I hope that its also a breakthrough for me too. So when I escape on my next holiday somewhere exotic I know what I’ll be packing.. smelly socks.

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Meet the Sloths

The world’s gone sloth crazy. The world’s only sloth orphanage is the subject of a film made by Lucy Cooke (a writer, film-maker, and self-professed ‘Peddler of sloth based cute crack for the LOL masses’). ‘Meet the sloths’ has become a phenomenon, having now been watched by over 2 million people around the world.

Aviaros del Caribe sloth sanctuary in Costa Rica is the world’s only sloth orphanage. Baby 2 and 3 toed sloths, whose mother’s have either been run over or zapped by power lines are brought to the sanctuary and looked after by legendary sloth whisperer Judy Arroyo. For more sloth photos and videos follow Lucy’s blog pinktreefrog.typepad.com/. The Music is “Scrapping and Yelling” by Mark Mothersbaugh from “The Royal Tenenbaum’s” movie soundtrack.

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Arenal Volcano in Costa Rica erupts!

COSTA Rica’s Arenal volcano has erupted, spewing geysers of lava, ash and toxic gases from its crater and forcing the evacuation of the national park where it is located. The 1633 metre tall mountain shuddered into activity at 4am on May 25th issuing eight successive rivers of lava that flowed down its steep slopes.

Apparently nobody was at risk from the eruptions but to be safe, authorities evacuated the Arenal National Park, which is in Northern Costa Rica and only 80km north-east of San Jose the capital. The last major eruption in July 1968 killed 87 people. And there have been at least six small eruptions over the past 35 years.

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A true escape – The Golfo Dulce

If Guanacaste has the natural buzz and energy driven in part by the surf culture, rolling frothy waves, and popularity with American tourists. Then the Osa Peninsula and Golfo Dulce is a place to escape happy in the knowledge that you will find quiet beauty, natural charm and an unassuming air due to its inexperience with tourism and visitors of any kind to be honest. Wildlife is in abundance because of the low population density. We saw by far the most bird, land, and sea life here out of anywhere in Costa Rica. And at incredibly close quarters as these photo’s show!

The lodges that we recommend in this region are accessible only by boat which only adds to the ‘i’ve escaped and am happy to lose myself in tropical paradise’ feeling!

We stayed at the Nicuesa Jungle Lodge

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Didnt we have a lovely time the day we visited Cano Island

Our favourite trip on the Osa Peninsula was to the Caño Island Biological Reserve. It’s a beautiful little island and can be reached in just 45 minutes by boat from Casa Corcovado Jungle Lodge making it a perfect daytrip. On the way out, we saw dozens of Spinner dolphins feeding. And on our return we were lucky enough to catch the juveniles playing – jumping and spinning high out of the water up to about 2 metres. So fun to watch. There is coral surrounding the island’s coast and it makes for a good couple of hours snorkelling before a packed lunch on the beach. We saw a deadly starfish, Puffer fish, Dog Snapper, Big eyed / blue jacks and Yellow finned tuna. But the thing that blew me away was the 200 strong school of barracuda which swam below us and around us for almost 15 minutes. Frightening and beautiful at the same time as they look so angry in the mouth.

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