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Planning the perfect holiday at the perfect time

One of the most common questions we’re asked by customers is “We’ve always wanted to go to Brazil (or Argentina or Guatemala) and when is the best time to visit?” For others who are constrained by a set time it’s more a question of “Where do you think we should go in March (or June or November)?”. So we thought a monthly guide on where to go and when in South and Central America would be helpful. Do let us know what you think.

 

January
Mexico’s Caribbean coast

Why not escape the British winter and celebrate New Year basking in the sunshine of Mexico’s Caribbean coast – the Mayan Riviera. With hundreds of miles of perfect, white-sand beaches with clear turquoise waters, hotels to suit every budget and some great flight deals available it’s a great choice.


Nicaragua

Nicaragua is an undiscovered gem. It’s what Costa Rica was like years ago – untouched and with little infrastructure. The Corn Islands off the Eastern coast have pristine white beaches and a typically Caribbean atmosphere. If you’re looking for a bit more luxury, you’ll find it on the Western Pacific coast at Morgan’s Rock (probably one of the best beach lodges in the America’s) and Punta Teonoste, which is a perfect place to get away from it all.  The colonial towns of Leon and Granada are a must see and those with an adventurous spirit will like the Rio Indio lodge at the end of the Rio San juan.

 

February
Salvador, Brazil

No doubt, the carnival parade in Rio is maybe the most visually beautiful spectacle in the world, but if you are looking for real fun, the Salvador Carnival is the place to go. It’s no coincidence that thousands of Brazilians come to Salvador every carnival. In Rio you are a spectator of the parade, whereas in the Salvador Carnival you are the show. This is by far the biggest street party in the world with around 2 million people participating in the parades over six consecutive days.

Costa Rica

It’s the dry season in Costa Rica so it’s the perfect time to visit most areas. Nature lovers can explore the country’s volcanoes and rainforests to see beautiful poison dart frogs, cloud forests, macaws, hummingbirds and the elusive quetzal. Costa Rica is a heaven for adventurers with rafting, hiking, mountain biking, horse-riding, surfing and zip-lining through the forest canopy.

 

March
Soberania, Panama

Panama is frequently described as “Central America’s best-kept secret” due to its rich history, incredible natural beauty and an astounding degree of biodiversity. If you’re passionate about birding this really is the place to be with over nine hundred bird species – more than in Costa Rica or in the whole of North America. Soberania is a world famous destination among birdwatchers – and March is one of the best times to come as it’s mostly dry.

Patagonia, Chile

This is the last month of the season in Chilean Patagonia as from April through to September Patagonia can become inaccessible. People looking to get off the beaten track will find Patagonia blissful as this is one of the most remote and beautiful areas of the world. It has lush forests, deep fjords, spectacular shaped mountains and awe inspiring glaciers. Expect to see an abundance of wildlife including llama, guanaco, rhea, condors and Magellan penguins.

 

April
The Cayes, Belize

These tiny Caribbean islands are good value for money at this time of year, as prices begin to drop. And if you’re looking to get away from high-rise hotels, over the top resorts and crowded dive and snorkelling sites, then this is the right spot for you! The Cayes have two stunning atolls and miles of barrier reef, much of which is totally unexplored and all of it is easily accessible by boat. Why not snorkel off the Turneffe islands or dive the infamous Blue Hole made famous by Jacques Cousteau in 1972 – it’s almost 1000 feet in diameter and over 450 feet deep!

Machu Picchu, Peru

Machu Picchu, the ‘lost city of the Incas’ is a world famous destination so it can get very crowded. We recommend going either at the beginning or the end of the dry season (April to October) when there are fewer travellers.  For us April is a truly special month with the orchids along the Inca trail in full bloom and the rivers ideal for white water rafting.


 

May
Galapagos Islands
A trip to the Galapagos Island is the journey of a lifetime; offering you a magical opportunity to view animals in their natural habitat who are completely unafraid of man. There are two seasons – the warm season is January to June and the dry Season July to December. May is a wonderful month with sunny clear skies and warm seas. You can snorkel with penguins and sea-lions and get close to penguins and flamingos. You’ll see waved albatrosses laying their eggs as well as green sea turtles hatching and marine iguana eggs.


Costa Rica Pacific
The sun drenches the land from November until the end of May; and the remote, pristine beaches lined with lush tropical jungle make this an idyllic place to relax and re-charge your batteries. You’ll find some of Costa Rica’s most exclusive beach retreats here on the Nicoya Peninsula.  If you’re feeling more energetic why not learn to surf – the Pacific coast presents one of the best stretches of surfing coastline in the world.

 

June
Cuzco, Peru
The Inca festival of the Sun ‘Inti Raymi’ is held in Cuzco every June. Tens of thousands of people come here from other parts of Peru and South America for the celebrations that last an entire week. There are parades, dancing, street fairs, music and there is even a re-enactment of a llama sacrifice (just in case any of you are faint-hearted, it’s fake). After this you can take the short drive to the Sacred Valley with its fertile valleys, white water rivers, colourful markets and hiking trails.


Brazil
In June the weather in Brazil is perfect.  You can expect temperatures in the mid-twenties on the coast in the south and low thirties further north and all without the rain.  This is also the best time to see the mighty Iguazu Falls as with less water coming over the canyons there are actually more individual waterfalls!


 

July
Ecuador
Ecuador is a diverse country offering everything from colourful markets to colonial towns and snow-capped volcanoes to Amazonia jungle. July’s dry, warm weather is perfect for trekking, climbing or horseriding holidays here and the tropical vegetation is still lush and green. One of the most authentic and off the beaten track expeditions we offer is to the Huaorani Lodge on the edge of the Amazon where you can meet the people of this unique Indian settlement that still maintains all of their original ways of life.

Northwest Argentina
This is a relatively unknown region of Argentina – explore the multi-coloured valleys and canyons of Calchaques, visit the ancient pre-Inca ruins of Quilmes, walk through narrow canyons to hidden waterfalls, or sample wine from the many vineyards. Take the famous ‘Train to the clouds’, the highest in the world built in 1932 which begins in Salta and ends in La Polvarilla – the highest point at 4220m. The trip takes approximately 15 hours and passes through some incredibly striking scenery.

 

August
Pantanal, Brazil
The Amazon maybe better known but the Pantanal is a superior place to see wildlife. In the Amazon, the animals hide in the dense foliage so you will always hear more than you can see, but in the open spaces of the Pantanal, wildlife is highly visible. From May to October, the world’s biggest wetland area drains into the Amazon River to the north and through the River Plate to the south, and as the month’s progress the wet lands subside.  This leaves behind small pockets of water, trapping the fish, which in turn attracts large numbers of migratory birds and resident mammals.

Bolivia
Bolivia’s population is 90% indigenous and travelling around this fascinating country is an adventure.  You don’t find the high levels of luxury found elsewhere on the continent, but you will find an array of spectacular scenery. The Bolivian Amazon (or the Yunga’s as they are known) is where the Andes meet the Amazon – you’ll find small mountains draped in jungle and a wide variety of wildlife.  The Uyuni salt flats are the largest in the world and are difficult to reach, but worth the journey. Most people visit Bolivia during their Winter (May-October) because of the dry, clear days.

 

September
Fernando de Noronha, Brazil
Fernando de Noronha’s weather is tropical with heat and sun all through the year – however September is a great month with average temperatures of 30 oC. Honeymooners will adore Brazil’s best and most exclusive hideaway, its 22 beaches have been fabled as an eco-wonderland. It offers a range of attractions that include snorkelling, diving, walking as well as wildlife and its beaches are regularly voted as the best in Brazil. Being a national park island it limits the amount of people on the island at any one time, which will hopefully preserve this pocket of paradise.


North East Brazil
The North East coast of Brazil is still hot at this time of year and there is no better place to get away from it all than the Marau Peninsula. To get to this remote paradise hotel, you take a private plane from Salvador landing just 100 meters from the reception, after a 35-minute scenic flight.  The eco-luxury resort of Kiaroa is situated on an endless deserted beach with crystalline water and natural pools which are ideal for swimming in – you can walk for miles and you won’t see a soul.

 

October
Buenos Aires, Argentina
It is early spring in Buenos Aires right now and the city is warming up. Known as the ‘Paris of South America’ it’s a fascinating, colourful city with a European feel. What’s more eating out is really affordable – so you can indulge yourself dining al fresco in the rejuvenated and hip Palermo Soho with all the new boutique hotels and bars. Then dance the night away in San Telmo!


The Atacama Desert, Chile
The Atacama Desert is a haven for adventure and in the past few years some superb hotels have been built in and around the adobe town of San Pedro de Atacama.  The landscape is positively lunar and when the sun sets and rises in the Valley de la Luna the hues of colours are amazing.  The area also has salt flats, geysers, pre-Inca ruins and is surrounded by numerous 5,000 and 6,000 metre volcanoes.


 

November
Guatemala
November is an ideal month to explore Guatemala – the heartland of the ancient world of the Mayans – as it’s fairly dry. Unlike most of Latin America, the majority of the local people are still indigenous Indian and many still wear their colourful, traditional costume.  The beautiful colonial city of Antigua is located close to the capital making it an ideal first point of call. Then head on to see Tikal probably the most impressive of the ancient Mayan cities, set deep in the rainforest and an absolute must.


Uruguay
Uruguay has year round good weather, but from November onwards the temperatures steadily increase making it a perfect beach destination after a visit to Argentina or Chile.  The new Playa VIK hotel has set a gold standard, but the Posada del Faro and the Casa Suaya are both excellent alternatives.  Around the small fishing village of Jose Ignacio are numerous activities from horse riding and surfing to beach combing and watching the fisherman bring in their catch – a time when the local restaurants vie for the best fish for your dinner!


 

December
The Bay Islands, Honduras
Located in amongst the second longest barrier reef in the world the Bay Islands spectacular coral-reef systems are home to some 96% of all species of marine life known to inhabit the Caribbean! Prices remain remarkably low, making the Bay Islands a great place to learn, and in turn love, scuba diving. December is a great month to visit because hurricane season (June to November) has ended plus its lobster season so you can indulge yourself in a fantastically fresh, incredibly cheap, sustainably fished lobster dinner.


Antarctica
Join an exclusive group of intrepid travellers and take an Antarctic voyage past Cape Horn, across the Drake Passage to the peninsula. It’s Summer in the White Continent and being unimaginably rich in fauna the southern ocean is a constant drama. Get close to penguins, seals, sea lions, whales, dolphins and albatrosses.  With each boat limited to about 50 passengers there is an intimate, friendly atmosphere and there are educational lectures on board.

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Casco Viejo in Panama city – more photos

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Not what I expected at all (Panama city)

When I was thinking about coming here a few months ago, I have to admit I wasn’t very excited. All I knew about Panama was that it had a canal (embarrassing but true). And whilst canals are interesting, it wasn’t enough to inspire me to book a holiday here. And when I have quizzed friends on the matter they usually admit the same. So when I started to read up on the visitor highlights as described by tour books I was surprised at what lay in store and a slow excitement began to build. Panama city sounded like a crazy mix of Hong Kong and Havana. Dozens of soaring glass skyscrapers. Dilapidated yet stunning Spanish colonial buildings with peeling paint. Restored old houses once owned by merchants converted into luxurious apartments. Chic little restaurants on plaza’s where you can drink fine wine under the stars. Sumptuously decorated churches to see. Great shopping with everything from boutiques to big brand name super stores. Exciting nightlife with clubs where sexy young things dance all night wearing the most beautiful clothes. And of course.. there is the canal, what some say is the greatest engineering marvel in the world.
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Granada’s churches

There are many stunning churches to explore over a day in Granada, Nicaragua. And the thing I like the most about exploring churches is the surprise element of what’s inside. You admire their exteriors and stop to view the structure from various angles on the street. Then you begin to create a fantastical picture in your mind of the Church inside. The coloured windows, carved pews, painted ceilings and tiled floors all come to life. And almost without fail, I am surprised by what I find. Often the most beautiful churches on the outside turn out to have rather disappointing interiors. And the churches which can appear unimpressive at first glance can, when you enter, take you by surprise with their splendour.
We stayed at the Hotel Plaza Colon.
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The historic city of Granada

Granada has had a turbulent past, having been attacked by pirates numerous times over the centuries Hence, it has been the scene of many battles with fires, swordplay and gunshots meaning that the city has been rebuilt over and over. Founded in 1524, for many years it was the administrative city from which the whole of Central America was governed. This explains the large number of grand buildings which surround the main plaza and of course the magnificence of the Cathedral. It’s hard to imagine such a violent past when you amble down the serene cobbled streets today.

There are sophisticated café’s serving excellent German and French baked bread. Women in long dresses carrying huge baskets of cashews on their tired arms parade up and down the open veranda’s. Horse and carts click-clack by around the cobbled streets. And the plaza, shaded by huge, craggy trees is the epi centre of it all. Start here, look around and simply .. watch. There is no doubt that it is the most heavily touristic part of the country. So be prepared for this. But if you are away from the street of bars and restaurants, you can soon get away from the madding crowd.

The Spanish colonial buildings have a wonderful ‘solidity’ to them. The walls are heavily plastered and painted with deep hues of mustard ochre, pillar box red and emerald green. And to me, the large and ornately carved wooden doors have a ‘Narnia’ feel. When I pass, I wonder if just like in the famous book – ‘The Lion, the witch and the wardrobe’ – does it hide any secrets? Sometimes you pass a door pushed open, and you get a glimpse of the world within. A rocking chair. A stooped figure with a stick. The shadowy outline of a cat lying on a matted rug.

Most of the bars and restaurants are located in the street which runs off the main plaza next to the Cathedral. We spent the evening at the Hotel Dario and had a luxurious and creamy fish dinner to the lively sounds of those drinking in the street al fresco.

We stayed at the Hotel Plaza Colon.

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The Panama canal – what could have been

The plans were drawn up. Negotiations were in the final stages. They even started dredging the sand from the mouth of the great Rio San Juan. Nicaragua was tantalisingly close to getting what we now know as the ‘Panama canal’. Tantalisingly close to receiving the biggest economic boost the country could ever imagine. Apparently, in the final days Panama released some smart propaganda claiming that with the high density of volcano’s and the recent volcanic activity in Nicaragua – surely it was highly dangerous to build such an important trading waterway in the country? It worked, and now it is Panama who enjoys the benefits of the canal. With over 14,000 boats passing through every year at an average fee of US$30,000 per vessel, it is big business.

Now it depends if you are a passionate naturist or a fervent capitalist as to whether you think Nicaragua losing the canal is a good or a bad thing. Because If Nicaragua had won the canal it is almost 100% certain that it would have been a disaster for the nature of the country as the Rio San Juan is the largest tract of primary rainforest north of the Amazon and it is full of wonderful birdlife, as well as turtles, caimans, crocodiles and a huge diversity of fishlife.

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Nicaragua – the ‘real’ Central America?

After spending some time here, I have decided that Nicaragua gives you what some may describe as a true Central American experience. Central America that is, before the mass tourism of the crowded Mexican riveria and the crass hotels of Monteverde in Costa Rica. Its like travelling back in time. The magnificent and peaceful colonial towns, the men on horseback trotting along the country lanes in Matagalpa, the pristine primary rainforest of the Rio San Juan – all of this has retained its natural beauty. And this is because of the lingering and baseless stigma of the Sandanista revolution. Nicaragua is magical – and its Central Americas best kept secret.

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Arriving in the city of Leon, Nicaragua

So.. on from Honduras and into Nicaragua. I dont know hardly anyone who has visited the country and am told that it is the secret jewel of Central America. So more fool them ;) First stop is Leon. Arriving in the Spanish colonial city of Leon as the day wound down at 5pm, we instantly warmed to the place. It had real energy but it wasn’t bustling in any way. Smiling young faces peering out behind towering wooden blue doors. Old men pushing horses with a heavy load to trot faster down cobbled streets. Burnt orange tiled roof’s with soot stains. Street stalls with hot steaming stoves full of soft cheese pancakes. And finally the central square and the magnificience of Leon cathedral. What a sight. And there are fourteen other churches to explore – each with its own individual style. A cultural capital dating back to the 16th century, Leon is packed with eye-catching colonial buildings. A day here spent wandering the streets is most pleasureable.

Leon is set in a land of volcanoes within easy reach of some simple fishing villages along the Pacific coast. The ski-like descent of nearby Cerro Negro volcano is recommended for an exhilarating and unique experience. In fact if you like – you can get a snow-board from your guide and board down.  the ash to the bottom!! We loved it!

We stayed at the Hotel Austria.

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A day in Merida (and the best ice cream!)

One of the highlights of a day in Merida is a slow wander around the main plaza in the afternoon, cooling down with a home-made ice cream. This ice cream palour is opposite the imposing Cathedral – the oldest in the America’s having been built in 1542. There’s also the beautiful Governer’s palace – filled with the most incredible murals which cover most walls of imposing building – they celebrate the Mayan’s struggle against those who came to the Yucatan to take away their country..its a must.
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Falling for the beauty of Mexican Hacienda’s

Have fallen in love with the whole concept of Hacienda’s. They are intensely romantic and they take you back in time to a more elegant, serene era with a much more pleasant pace of life. I like the crumbling stone archways painted in deep shades of colbalt blue, ochre and terracotta .. the intricately carved wooden verrandas are hard to beat.. but its the cool courtyards surrounded by lush gardens that get me.. perfect for retreating from the searing heat. In short, i wouldnt stay anywhere else if i had the choice in this part of the country.
We stayed at the Hacienda San Jose – close to Chichen Itza.
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