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Undiscovered Nicaragua

 

In comparison to the rest of Latin America, Nicaragua travel is still an unknown destination. It is best compared to Costa Rica 30 years ago; a raw destination with huge potential and as such now is the time to go.

 

 

 

Whether it is a honeymoon in Nicaragua or just a Nicaragua vacation, the country has a lot to offer. San Juan del Sur is the best area for beaches and the new Mukul Resort, close to the border with Costa Rica has it all; private plunge pools, bungalows with ocean views and a long sweeping white beach.

 

 

Granada has always been the main area for tourism and has some of the best options with regards accommodation in the country. Leon is a beautiful colonial town in the west of the country and receives fewer visitors, but is well worth the effort of getting there. Lake Nicaragua and Ometepe Island with its twin volcanoes offers a range of activities from bike riding to hiking and kayaking and is easily linked with the nearby San Juan del Sur.

 

 

 

The south east of the country is less accessible, but worth the time and money to get there. The remote Solentiname Archipelago is home to Nicaraguan art and also offers some great wildlife opportunities. The Rio San Juan which creates the border with Costa Rica is still very much untouched. The Rio Indio lodge is on the Caribbean Sea and is a great place to go game fishing whilst the rustic Sabalos lodge is a unique place to stay and perfect for breaking up the 7 hour motor boat ride to the coast.

 

 

 

The Corn Islands in the Caribbean Sea are the best place to go snorkelling, though visibility can be an issue at times. The islands are a backwater where small towns and wooden huts are the norm. The beaches are excellent and superb for beach combing and forgetting everyday life.

 

 

 

If you want to see a country before it changes, then head to Nicaragua sooner rather than later. It won’t be long before its true potential is realised and a range of new, modern, boutique hotels start popping up all over the country and some of that unique authenticity is lost.

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Ecuador Travel – the place to go in 2013

Ecuador travel is a real talking point right now. It’s on every 2013 hot list we’ve read and no wonder as there have been some exciting developments in Ecuador tourism for travellers (plus it’s been a best kept secret in South America travel for a long time).

 

 

So why is Ecuador travel suddenly a hot topic you say? Well the first reason is that Ecuador tours will be much easier in 2013 with the newly restored railway. Ecuador’s railway was virtually destroyed in the 1990’s in floods. The re-build is a monumental task and is costing $250m.

 

The train will connect the city of Quito to the Guayaquil port as well as Ecuador’s Cotopaxi volcano at 5,900m and the Nariz del Diablo (Devil’s Nose). Our Ecuador tour tip for the brave is to ride the Riobamba–Alausi–Sibambe train – the steepest stretch of railway in the Western world. It’s quite an experience as it descends sharply down rocky cliffs in zig zags. The trip between Alausi and Sibambe takes three hours and costs $20.

 

 

 

As the buzz around Ecuador travel has grown so have the demands on its airport. The new Quito airport will be over ten times larger than the original and will open in February this year.

 

Ecuador tours are very safe and the country is unbelievably diverse – you can be in the rainforest, the towering Andes and the beach all in a two week Ecuador holiday. Whether you are a fan of colonial towns and local markets, a mountain walker snow bunny or a wildlife lover there is something for you.

 

It’s one of the smallest countries in South America so it’s not expensive to get around compared to some of the larger countries (for example you need to fly around Brazil to see all the big sights which really pushes up the cost).

 

Some of the best accommodation in Ecuador is in its beautiful old haciendas. Just a couple of the many we recommend are the Hacienda Leito and the Hacienda Cusin.

 

 

Then there is the new Quito hotel Casa Gangotena which featured on the Conde Nast 2012 hot list. A pain staking restoration of a stunning 1926 Art Nouveau mansion it has just 31 rooms. Think sparkling antique chandeliers casting dappled light across hand-painted ceilings. There is an indoor courtyard with rainbows of tropical flowers. The rooms have elegant high ceilings with snowy carpets and beautiful shimmering gold curtains. The bathrooms are marble (of course).

 

If you are a lover of chocolate then Ecuador travel is for you – it’s a little known fact that Ecuador produces around 60 % of the world’s cacao. Chocolate-themed tours will launch in November this year where you can visit indigenous cacao growers, discover how to make chocolate and even spend a day river rafting in the Ecuadorian Amazon.

 

 

Then of course we come to The Galapagos Islands (what Ecuador tourism is known for). Galapagos cruises are a wonderful family holiday as there is nowhere else in the world that you get so close to such an array of wildlife. Any adult or child will remember a Galapagos travel experience for the rest of their lives. Even Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie holidayed in April this year at the Galapagos Islands!

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Brazil with Michael Palin – Part III

In this series Palin covers one of the most popular destinations in the world – Rio de Janeiro, as well as some of the lesser explored regions, but no less fascinating – the state of Minas Gerais and the small town of Ouro Preto.

 

 

Each day in Rio de Janeiro is slightly different from the previous one and all are strikingly beautiful. There are other cities in the world that have grown up backed by mountains and fronted by the sea, but none where the play of light, the shifting of shadows, the mix of colours and hues are so vibrant and mobile.

 

Though no longer Brazil’s capital, it is undoubtedly the country’s most colourful city, where everything from its spectacular landmarks to its glitzy beach scene, must be seen to be believed. Nothing quite prepares you for Rio, not the postcards, not the films, not the comments, nothing.

 

 

Ouro Preto was the first Brazilian town to be declared a world heritage site by UNESCO and the town is a step back into history and past human accomplishments. The town has thirteen large churches and numerous public monuments and buildings. Founded at the end of the 17th century, Ouro Preto (Black Gold) was the focal point of the gold rush and Brazil’s golden age in the 18th century.

 

HOTELS IN RIO DE JANEIRO;

 

 

Copacabana Palace

Whatever happens with other hotels in Rio, the Copacabana Place will always remain one of the most interesting and best places to stay. The building is an icon on the beachfront of Rio and the service has taken on mythical proportions

 

Marina All Suites

The first boutique and design hotel to emerge in Rio, the Marina All Suites is located by Leblon beach – next to Ipanema. In addition to its innovative design, the Marina All Suites offers a unique environment, where style meets a perfect combination of facilities and services in order to please even the most discerning and sophisticated guests.

 

Porto Bay

Located in the heart of Copacabana, the Porto Bay Rio Internacional Hotel boasts modern stylish rooms, a beautiful waterfront setting with gorgeous views, and easy access to the world famous Copacabana Beach. With rooms offering ceiling to wall windows your views across the bay are unparalleled.

 

HOTELS IN OURO PRETO;

 

 

Pousada Do Mondego

Located inside an 18th century colonial mansion in the heart of Ouro Preto this hotel offers a great location for sightseeing in Ouro Preto. The hotel is spread over 3 floors. The suites are the best option in this hotel offering large comfortable rooms, with a cosy feel, four poster beds and overlooking the square and the city below.

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Cuzco – now a chi chi Latin city

 

Once it was just a stopping off point en route to Machu Picchu, but now Cuzco has suddenly become rather chic. It could be down to gastronomy – there are quite a few celebrity chefs setting up restaurants – or perhaps it’s the lovely fashion boutiques which are appearing on many of the cobbled streets. Whatever it is, we are delighted that Cuzco has become such a delightful stepping stone to the majestic Inca ruins of Machu Picchu.

 

Where to stay

 

 

La Casona Hotel. Eleven suites surround a sumptuous courtyard, where the history of time has been tastefully preserved. Furnished with antiques, and decorated with original architectural details this is probably the best place to stay in Cuzco.

 

In July there are two new five-star hotels opening. The first is the opulent Orient Express run Palacio Nazarenas with doubles from £315; it is in a beautiful old convent and will be the only hotel in Cuzco with its own pool. The next is the JW Marriott set in a converted church and we like the fact that all rooms have oxygen machines to help alleviate altitude sickness.

 

What to see

 

 

The city has a curious characterwith its huge walls of intricately laid stone and narrow cobbled streets. A great place to see Cuzco life unfold is the Plaza de Armas – probably the most beautiful in the world with the dominant sixteenth century cathedral and 17th centuray church next door both of which are surrounded by colonial buildings with balconies. The Inca Museum is also a must see, built on Inca foundations its exhibits include, carved ceremonial goblets, weavings, mummies, silver and gold figurines, as well as Inca weapons and tools.

 

What to eat

 

 

The diverse population and climate make Peruvian cuisine one of the most exciting in the world. You have the pungent heat of Spanish tastes brought over from Cortes and, through immigration, influences from China and Japan. So it’s no surprise that Ceviche – bite-size pieces of white fish marinated raw in lime juice mixed with chilli’s – is one of the most sought after dishes. One of the best places to try it is at Chicha Cuzco, overlooking the charming Plaza Regocijo and managed by Peru’s most famous chef Gaston Acurio. Set in an airy loft like setting on the second floor of an old colonial house, it has high ceilings and an open kitchen. The menu is very reasonably priced too.

 

Recently you may have read about Peruvian cuisine as an international food trend – indeed there were two high profile London restaurant openings in January alone, including Lima London and Coya.

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Unusual Honeymoon Destinations

You’ve had various tricky discussions with your mother about the rising number of guests and a huge argument with your husband to be about the ‘insane’ cost of the church flowers.  Organising this wedding feels a bit like running a marathon and the champagne filled days of the engagement seem a long time ago now!!

 

The honeymoon is all you can think about and you can’t wait to disappear completely and relax as a couple alone. But where to go? Two weeks of lazing on a beach no longer cuts it as the ultimate romantic trip. People are steering away from the classic beach destinations such as the Maldives and Mauritius, as they are determined to have the trip of their lives and return home with a story to tell.

 

So, if you are looking for a unique and unusual honeymoon, we at Latin Odyssey can find exactly what you are looking for, but for now, we have selected three honeymoon experiences you should consider…

 

1. Argentina & Uruguay (wine, wildlife and beaches)

 

For those looking for somewhere a little different in Argentina you should take look at the North West of the country. Here you will find salt flats, multi coloured canyons, mountains, vineyards and small colonial towns. Take the famous ‘Train to the clouds’ together, the highest in the world built in 1932 which begins in Salta and ends in La Polvarilla. The trip takes approximately 15 hours and passes through some incredibly striking scenery. If you’re both wildlife enthusiasts why not combine this with the Ibera wetlands, an untouched region with some superb wildlife (you will see Pampa deer, giant anteater and if you’re lucky the elusive jaguar). It’s worth mentioning that Argentina offers the best value of any South American country – so you will be able to afford to spoil yourselves.

 

The only thing Argentina doesn’t have is good beaches, so if you want to add a few days on the beach you can take a 40 minute flight from Buenos Aires to the quaint fishing village of Jose Ignacio in Uruguay.  In the past few years it’s caught the eye of a
few celebrities – last Summer visitors included the son of Princess Caroline of Monaco, Shakira, Ralph Lauren, and Jennifer Lopez.

 

2. Nicaragua (colonial towns, volcanoes and beaches)

 

 

Nicaragua is the largest yet least travelled country in Central America.  It’s an ideal destination for honeymooner’s seeking authentic Central American character and something truly different. This is Central America at its rawest and purest.

 

History buffs should visit the beautifully preserved Spanish colonial city of Granada, on the shores of Lake Nicaragua. When you’ve tired of walking the beautiful plazas, exploring churches and the colonial facades you can head to the beaches of the
nearby Pacific coast. San Juan del Sur is a scenic fishing village at the head of a horseshoe bay.  Great surfing, diving and snorkelling can be found nearby, and the sport fishing and sailing are world class.  Kayaking, mountain biking and horse riding are also possible. Otherwise do nothing at all and curl up together under a palm tree on the beautiful and almost deserted beaches. We think the most romantic place to stay is Morgan’s Rock.

 

3. Honduras (Mayan ruins, jungle, beaches and coral reefs)

 

 

 

If you and your partner are water babies then this is the honeymoon made for you. Located in amongst the second longest barrier reef in the world the Bay Islands spectacular coral-reef systems are home to some 96% of all species of marine life known to inhabit the Caribbean! There are three main islands, Roatan, Utila and Guanaja, plus some 60 other smaller Cayes.
Roatan is the largest at 40 miles long, with a beautiful mountainous backbone and a shoreline dotted with white sandy beaches and small Garifuna communities. Honeymooner’s looking to get away from it all should grab their snorkels and hire a car on Roatan. They’ll find dozens of idyllic little coves and beaches – some of these are inhabited, others are home to nothing but palm trees and iguanas.

 

However, the country has more to offer than just diving.  The Mayan ruins of Copan were the artistic centre of the Mayan world and are easily accessible whilst the jungle clad Pico Bonito National park is a haven for walkers and wildlife.

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Planning the perfect holiday at the perfect time

One of the most common questions we’re asked by customers is “We’ve always wanted to go to Brazil (or Argentina or Guatemala) and when is the best time to visit?” For others who are constrained by a set time it’s more a question of “Where do you think we should go in March (or June or November)?”. So we thought a monthly guide on where to go and when in South and Central America would be helpful. Do let us know what you think.

 

January
Mexico’s Caribbean coast

Why not escape the British winter and celebrate New Year basking in the sunshine of Mexico’s Caribbean coast – the Mayan Riviera. With hundreds of miles of perfect, white-sand beaches with clear turquoise waters, hotels to suit every budget and some great flight deals available it’s a great choice.


Nicaragua

Nicaragua is an undiscovered gem. It’s what Costa Rica was like years ago – untouched and with little infrastructure. The Corn Islands off the Eastern coast have pristine white beaches and a typically Caribbean atmosphere. If you’re looking for a bit more luxury, you’ll find it on the Western Pacific coast at Morgan’s Rock (probably one of the best beach lodges in the America’s) and Punta Teonoste, which is a perfect place to get away from it all.  The colonial towns of Leon and Granada are a must see and those with an adventurous spirit will like the Rio Indio lodge at the end of the Rio San juan.

 

February
Salvador, Brazil

No doubt, the carnival parade in Rio is maybe the most visually beautiful spectacle in the world, but if you are looking for real fun, the Salvador Carnival is the place to go. It’s no coincidence that thousands of Brazilians come to Salvador every carnival. In Rio you are a spectator of the parade, whereas in the Salvador Carnival you are the show. This is by far the biggest street party in the world with around 2 million people participating in the parades over six consecutive days.

Costa Rica

It’s the dry season in Costa Rica so it’s the perfect time to visit most areas. Nature lovers can explore the country’s volcanoes and rainforests to see beautiful poison dart frogs, cloud forests, macaws, hummingbirds and the elusive quetzal. Costa Rica is a heaven for adventurers with rafting, hiking, mountain biking, horse-riding, surfing and zip-lining through the forest canopy.

 

March
Soberania, Panama

Panama is frequently described as “Central America’s best-kept secret” due to its rich history, incredible natural beauty and an astounding degree of biodiversity. If you’re passionate about birding this really is the place to be with over nine hundred bird species – more than in Costa Rica or in the whole of North America. Soberania is a world famous destination among birdwatchers – and March is one of the best times to come as it’s mostly dry.

Patagonia, Chile

This is the last month of the season in Chilean Patagonia as from April through to September Patagonia can become inaccessible. People looking to get off the beaten track will find Patagonia blissful as this is one of the most remote and beautiful areas of the world. It has lush forests, deep fjords, spectacular shaped mountains and awe inspiring glaciers. Expect to see an abundance of wildlife including llama, guanaco, rhea, condors and Magellan penguins.

 

April
The Cayes, Belize

These tiny Caribbean islands are good value for money at this time of year, as prices begin to drop. And if you’re looking to get away from high-rise hotels, over the top resorts and crowded dive and snorkelling sites, then this is the right spot for you! The Cayes have two stunning atolls and miles of barrier reef, much of which is totally unexplored and all of it is easily accessible by boat. Why not snorkel off the Turneffe islands or dive the infamous Blue Hole made famous by Jacques Cousteau in 1972 – it’s almost 1000 feet in diameter and over 450 feet deep!

Machu Picchu, Peru

Machu Picchu, the ‘lost city of the Incas’ is a world famous destination so it can get very crowded. We recommend going either at the beginning or the end of the dry season (April to October) when there are fewer travellers.  For us April is a truly special month with the orchids along the Inca trail in full bloom and the rivers ideal for white water rafting.


 

May
Galapagos Islands
A trip to the Galapagos Island is the journey of a lifetime; offering you a magical opportunity to view animals in their natural habitat who are completely unafraid of man. There are two seasons – the warm season is January to June and the dry Season July to December. May is a wonderful month with sunny clear skies and warm seas. You can snorkel with penguins and sea-lions and get close to penguins and flamingos. You’ll see waved albatrosses laying their eggs as well as green sea turtles hatching and marine iguana eggs.


Costa Rica Pacific
The sun drenches the land from November until the end of May; and the remote, pristine beaches lined with lush tropical jungle make this an idyllic place to relax and re-charge your batteries. You’ll find some of Costa Rica’s most exclusive beach retreats here on the Nicoya Peninsula.  If you’re feeling more energetic why not learn to surf – the Pacific coast presents one of the best stretches of surfing coastline in the world.

 

June
Cuzco, Peru
The Inca festival of the Sun ‘Inti Raymi’ is held in Cuzco every June. Tens of thousands of people come here from other parts of Peru and South America for the celebrations that last an entire week. There are parades, dancing, street fairs, music and there is even a re-enactment of a llama sacrifice (just in case any of you are faint-hearted, it’s fake). After this you can take the short drive to the Sacred Valley with its fertile valleys, white water rivers, colourful markets and hiking trails.


Brazil
In June the weather in Brazil is perfect.  You can expect temperatures in the mid-twenties on the coast in the south and low thirties further north and all without the rain.  This is also the best time to see the mighty Iguazu Falls as with less water coming over the canyons there are actually more individual waterfalls!


 

July
Ecuador
Ecuador is a diverse country offering everything from colourful markets to colonial towns and snow-capped volcanoes to Amazonia jungle. July’s dry, warm weather is perfect for trekking, climbing or horseriding holidays here and the tropical vegetation is still lush and green. One of the most authentic and off the beaten track expeditions we offer is to the Huaorani Lodge on the edge of the Amazon where you can meet the people of this unique Indian settlement that still maintains all of their original ways of life.

Northwest Argentina
This is a relatively unknown region of Argentina – explore the multi-coloured valleys and canyons of Calchaques, visit the ancient pre-Inca ruins of Quilmes, walk through narrow canyons to hidden waterfalls, or sample wine from the many vineyards. Take the famous ‘Train to the clouds’, the highest in the world built in 1932 which begins in Salta and ends in La Polvarilla – the highest point at 4220m. The trip takes approximately 15 hours and passes through some incredibly striking scenery.

 

August
Pantanal, Brazil
The Amazon maybe better known but the Pantanal is a superior place to see wildlife. In the Amazon, the animals hide in the dense foliage so you will always hear more than you can see, but in the open spaces of the Pantanal, wildlife is highly visible. From May to October, the world’s biggest wetland area drains into the Amazon River to the north and through the River Plate to the south, and as the month’s progress the wet lands subside.  This leaves behind small pockets of water, trapping the fish, which in turn attracts large numbers of migratory birds and resident mammals.

Bolivia
Bolivia’s population is 90% indigenous and travelling around this fascinating country is an adventure.  You don’t find the high levels of luxury found elsewhere on the continent, but you will find an array of spectacular scenery. The Bolivian Amazon (or the Yunga’s as they are known) is where the Andes meet the Amazon – you’ll find small mountains draped in jungle and a wide variety of wildlife.  The Uyuni salt flats are the largest in the world and are difficult to reach, but worth the journey. Most people visit Bolivia during their Winter (May-October) because of the dry, clear days.

 

September
Fernando de Noronha, Brazil
Fernando de Noronha’s weather is tropical with heat and sun all through the year – however September is a great month with average temperatures of 30 oC. Honeymooners will adore Brazil’s best and most exclusive hideaway, its 22 beaches have been fabled as an eco-wonderland. It offers a range of attractions that include snorkelling, diving, walking as well as wildlife and its beaches are regularly voted as the best in Brazil. Being a national park island it limits the amount of people on the island at any one time, which will hopefully preserve this pocket of paradise.


North East Brazil
The North East coast of Brazil is still hot at this time of year and there is no better place to get away from it all than the Marau Peninsula. To get to this remote paradise hotel, you take a private plane from Salvador landing just 100 meters from the reception, after a 35-minute scenic flight.  The eco-luxury resort of Kiaroa is situated on an endless deserted beach with crystalline water and natural pools which are ideal for swimming in – you can walk for miles and you won’t see a soul.

 

October
Buenos Aires, Argentina
It is early spring in Buenos Aires right now and the city is warming up. Known as the ‘Paris of South America’ it’s a fascinating, colourful city with a European feel. What’s more eating out is really affordable – so you can indulge yourself dining al fresco in the rejuvenated and hip Palermo Soho with all the new boutique hotels and bars. Then dance the night away in San Telmo!


The Atacama Desert, Chile
The Atacama Desert is a haven for adventure and in the past few years some superb hotels have been built in and around the adobe town of San Pedro de Atacama.  The landscape is positively lunar and when the sun sets and rises in the Valley de la Luna the hues of colours are amazing.  The area also has salt flats, geysers, pre-Inca ruins and is surrounded by numerous 5,000 and 6,000 metre volcanoes.


 

November
Guatemala
November is an ideal month to explore Guatemala – the heartland of the ancient world of the Mayans – as it’s fairly dry. Unlike most of Latin America, the majority of the local people are still indigenous Indian and many still wear their colourful, traditional costume.  The beautiful colonial city of Antigua is located close to the capital making it an ideal first point of call. Then head on to see Tikal probably the most impressive of the ancient Mayan cities, set deep in the rainforest and an absolute must.


Uruguay
Uruguay has year round good weather, but from November onwards the temperatures steadily increase making it a perfect beach destination after a visit to Argentina or Chile.  The new Playa VIK hotel has set a gold standard, but the Posada del Faro and the Casa Suaya are both excellent alternatives.  Around the small fishing village of Jose Ignacio are numerous activities from horse riding and surfing to beach combing and watching the fisherman bring in their catch – a time when the local restaurants vie for the best fish for your dinner!


 

December
The Bay Islands, Honduras
Located in amongst the second longest barrier reef in the world the Bay Islands spectacular coral-reef systems are home to some 96% of all species of marine life known to inhabit the Caribbean! Prices remain remarkably low, making the Bay Islands a great place to learn, and in turn love, scuba diving. December is a great month to visit because hurricane season (June to November) has ended plus its lobster season so you can indulge yourself in a fantastically fresh, incredibly cheap, sustainably fished lobster dinner.


Antarctica
Join an exclusive group of intrepid travellers and take an Antarctic voyage past Cape Horn, across the Drake Passage to the peninsula. It’s Summer in the White Continent and being unimaginably rich in fauna the southern ocean is a constant drama. Get close to penguins, seals, sea lions, whales, dolphins and albatrosses.  With each boat limited to about 50 passengers there is an intimate, friendly atmosphere and there are educational lectures on board.

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Casco Viejo in Panama city – more photos

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Not what I expected at all (Panama city)

When I was thinking about coming here a few months ago, I have to admit I wasn’t very excited. All I knew about Panama was that it had a canal (embarrassing but true). And whilst canals are interesting, it wasn’t enough to inspire me to book a holiday here. And when I have quizzed friends on the matter they usually admit the same. So when I started to read up on the visitor highlights as described by tour books I was surprised at what lay in store and a slow excitement began to build. Panama city sounded like a crazy mix of Hong Kong and Havana. Dozens of soaring glass skyscrapers. Dilapidated yet stunning Spanish colonial buildings with peeling paint. Restored old houses once owned by merchants converted into luxurious apartments. Chic little restaurants on plaza’s where you can drink fine wine under the stars. Sumptuously decorated churches to see. Great shopping with everything from boutiques to big brand name super stores. Exciting nightlife with clubs where sexy young things dance all night wearing the most beautiful clothes. And of course.. there is the canal, what some say is the greatest engineering marvel in the world.
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Granada’s churches

There are many stunning churches to explore over a day in Granada, Nicaragua. And the thing I like the most about exploring churches is the surprise element of what’s inside. You admire their exteriors and stop to view the structure from various angles on the street. Then you begin to create a fantastical picture in your mind of the Church inside. The coloured windows, carved pews, painted ceilings and tiled floors all come to life. And almost without fail, I am surprised by what I find. Often the most beautiful churches on the outside turn out to have rather disappointing interiors. And the churches which can appear unimpressive at first glance can, when you enter, take you by surprise with their splendour.
We stayed at the Hotel Plaza Colon.
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The historic city of Granada

Granada has had a turbulent past, having been attacked by pirates numerous times over the centuries Hence, it has been the scene of many battles with fires, swordplay and gunshots meaning that the city has been rebuilt over and over. Founded in 1524, for many years it was the administrative city from which the whole of Central America was governed. This explains the large number of grand buildings which surround the main plaza and of course the magnificence of the Cathedral. It’s hard to imagine such a violent past when you amble down the serene cobbled streets today.

There are sophisticated café’s serving excellent German and French baked bread. Women in long dresses carrying huge baskets of cashews on their tired arms parade up and down the open veranda’s. Horse and carts click-clack by around the cobbled streets. And the plaza, shaded by huge, craggy trees is the epi centre of it all. Start here, look around and simply .. watch. There is no doubt that it is the most heavily touristic part of the country. So be prepared for this. But if you are away from the street of bars and restaurants, you can soon get away from the madding crowd.

The Spanish colonial buildings have a wonderful ‘solidity’ to them. The walls are heavily plastered and painted with deep hues of mustard ochre, pillar box red and emerald green. And to me, the large and ornately carved wooden doors have a ‘Narnia’ feel. When I pass, I wonder if just like in the famous book – ‘The Lion, the witch and the wardrobe’ – does it hide any secrets? Sometimes you pass a door pushed open, and you get a glimpse of the world within. A rocking chair. A stooped figure with a stick. The shadowy outline of a cat lying on a matted rug.

Most of the bars and restaurants are located in the street which runs off the main plaza next to the Cathedral. We spent the evening at the Hotel Dario and had a luxurious and creamy fish dinner to the lively sounds of those drinking in the street al fresco.

We stayed at the Hotel Plaza Colon.

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